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I'm leaving Melbourne on Boxing Day heading up  the Australian Alps and am going to Sydney, via Canberra. Its an Audax raid called Raid Aurora.

Almost as soon as I got back to Melbourne and the family, I started planning the next trip. This time all the way around Australia.

However, with 10 weeks to go until the scheduled departure date of April 1st, It has become necessary to postpone the proposed "Ride Around Australia". Unfortunately I have been unable to secure the necessary assurances from my employer that would have allowed me to undertake the ride. Basically, they wouldn’t allow me to take 6 months leave, so it is one I will have to put on the back burner for a while But it will happen there are just have a few things I need to sort out.

Watch this space.

New  bicycle Ride Melbourne to Melbourne all the way round Australia leaving April 1^st 2010. Watch this space for future updates. Nickman

In the planning stages but hope to get on my bike and harness up BOB for another adventure- watch this space

 A vibrant and bustling city, cosmopolitan too, a healthy mix of people and cultures, many people begin or end their journeys here. So I’m a tourist and a stranger in my own country. Well a stranger to this part of the country anyway.

I spent yesterday and today riding and walking the city of Darwin, cruising the wharf area and the piers. There's more fisherman than fish, it’s the same the world over. I thought about a charter going out to the reefs and hauling in a couple of coral trout, but I wouldn’t eat them and somehow I’ve lost my killer instinct.

Great weather and beautiful parks and gardens, a languid laid back tropical feel. Perhaps I should be dressed in linen and sipping a G and T while the ceiling fans whir overhead.

OK enough of that back to the business at hand. Darwin is ‘gearing up’, no pun intended, for the V8 Supercars this weekend. A petrol-head heaven for the rev heads in town. I paid another visit to 'Bike Fit' in Darwin and organized to have the bike and BOB boxed for the flight home. While I was there I helped them unload a truck full of new stock, they sure won't run out of bike boxes in a hurry.

When chatting with Shannon and Paul at the bike shop I came over all reflective like a mirror in response to their questions of what the ride was like, what worked what didn’t that kind of stuff, so I thought I will jot down a few points and things that come to mind that others planning a touring trip may find beneficial.

First off, if you are planning on a tour of any duration begin with a reasonable level of fitness. I’m talking ‘bike fit’, not the store, but your physical condition. Time on the bike, as we say miles in the legs, is like money in the bank. Have a well maintained and sound bicycle with a basic knowledge and ability to fix/repair the most common problems, flat tyres, broken spokes, slipping gears and  chain problems. The running gear is where your most likely to have problems . Pack light, take as little as possible and don’t take anything your not prepared to discard if you haven’t used it with in two weeks.

You need to be comfortable in your own skin. You may be 2 or 3 days without talking with another soul, out of phone range too and totally dependent on yourself, so be mentally prepared and focused on what you are doing. Don't become obsessive, but enough so you don’t lose your way or concentration, lack of concentration on the road could mean drifting into the path of a road train- nasty. I'm not sure how to work the magic balance.

Take enough food and water for at least 3 days. Guide books, maps and websites can get out of date real quick. You may find yourself without a food or worse the water stop you had anticipated, is no longer there, damn!

Plan each day's ride, make sure you can comfortably complete the planned distance in daylight hours. You don’t ever want to be out on the road at night alone. It gets dark quickly and there’s no ambient light to help you see. Its as black as night and the further north you go the quicker it gets dark. No twilight, so set up camp prior to dusk late in the afternoon.

Take a bike stand, it’s a must. Adam a cyclist I met on the road was carrying a heap of gear with no way to get off the bike other than to lean it against a tree or something similar. I don’t know how he manages a ‘nature break’ without a tree (I don’t mean he’s a dog). Definitely take a handlebar rack for your map, snacks, sunscreen etc, all within easy reach.

I didn’t get one flat tyre the whole trip. BOB had a slow leak at Port Augusta but so did I. I had slime filled extra heavy duty tubes. Sure they add weight, but the proof is in the pudding. My Geax tyres are heavy with a knobby pattern that cuts down on rolling resistance but took all the nasty bits of verge and dodgy bitumen could throw at them they still look new! You could most likely do the same trip on 700c tires a ridged fork. I guess its about personal preference. I had front shocks which softened the ride and worked for me, along with my lovely aged  Brooks touring saddle which I would never give up (I have a B17 narrow on my roadie as well).

WATER! Take more than you need, each 1 litre is equal to 1 kilogram of weight. At the start of each day I had an extra 7 to 10 kilos of water on board which I drank, perspired or expelled at nature breaks, so that by the end of the day the load, mine and the bike's, is a lot lighter.

Keep up the maintenance, its about routine. Check the bike at the start and end of each day and give it a good clean and oil every second day (look after your equipment).

Traveling alone, has its benefits you don’t have to compromise and you operate on your own terms, however, be prepared for the loneliness. Alone and unsupported means just that, its down to you. Sometimes that means having nobody to run an idea past. You can miscalculate distance, time and your ability (I did!)  Cycling couples say the "togetherness tour" will make or break a relationship, perhaps its best not to put it to the test if your not 100% sure.

Now Pain. There is no escape, you will hurt, accidents happen as well, you will need to push through a degree of pain at times otherwise forget it and put the kettle on right now,. Even with the best planning and equipment you will suffer. Staying safe means using common sense but your judgment can go missing, eat sleep and ride keep this as your focus.

Take it in take it out, operate on the philosophy used by National Parks, don’t rubbish Australia. In fact leave no evidence of you having been in a particular place, it doesn’t hurt to clean up a space you have camped in, even if you didn’t make the mess (try selling that one to a teenager!)

One more thing, you need perseverance. You don’t have to be the best recreational cyclist going round but you do need to PUSH ON. It's not enough to be able to ride for 5 or 6 hours a day. That may be just long enough to ride yourself into trouble, that is, half way between somewhere and somewhere else with no ability to go forward or back, you can be a plodder (I am) just so long as you can spend 10 to 12 hours on the bike and ride your self out of trouble.

Anyway that’s enough from me, thanks again for all your kind comments they really did uplift me and I felt your support and encouragement as Elvis might have said: “I can feel the love in the room”.  I’m happy to be contacted via this blog by those who may be planning a cycling journey and would like to discuss their individual situation or technical bike stuff, especially if you're planning on traveling from Melbourne to Darwin. I know I found it difficult to secure reliable up to date info prior to my trip.

Peace and Love Comrades!

    

  

Well, I had a sleepless night last night: "Many a slip between cup and  lip,"  they say. I awoke pensive to another perfect day. I was ready, the bike was ready, BOB was ready, So off we went into a clear warm morning. To be honest, I hadn't given too much thought to finishing. As the football coaches say: " Just taking it one day at a time". I rolled out of Adelaide Waters at about 7.30am, lots of traffic on the Stuart Highway, mostly caravaners coming my way, all off on their own adventure.

I pulled in at a roadside rest stop after 60kms, ate my fruit and nut cake (appropriate food for me today) and had a coffee from my themos. I was stalling, I didn't really want this ride to end. When I started back on the first of May, I allowed myself to believe I had an outside chance of making it all the way from Footscray to Darwin, however so much is out of your control. The fact that I did make it is pretty much down to luck, good weather the support of Family and Friends and the mechanical skill of the Moore brothers from Abbotsford Cycles in Richmond.

I kept my eyes open for wildlife as usual, startled a kangaroo, saw more of what could be Jabiru, waved at people who tooted me and once again on my left as a goods train passed I waved and he sounded his horn. I'm sure I want to be a train driver when i grow up. While I was distracted thinking about the next adventure and this one coming to an end the City of Darwin was sneaking up on me.

Its well laid out and you really start to hit the outskirts some 30kms from the city. Lots of caravan parks, Bait & Gun shops, or so it seems. When I get about 15 kms out at Howard Springs, I see a bike path that runs along side the highway into town, so naturally I take the path and roll right along, past the RAAF base. I turn right up Bogart Road to 'Bike Fit" a bike shop who I have arranged to box my bike for the flight back home and have my Audax Brevet signed for the last time. I will drop the bike off tomorrow, but I spend the rest of the afternoon cruising around Darwin City and the beach.

I check into a cheap hotel for a couple of nights and then go exploring , lots to see a much different vibe than Alice, heaps of young people, travelers from all over the world.  The caravans have disgorged their contents and old people are in abundance as well. Its peak season, what seems to be missing on first blush are the people in between the young and the old.

It sure is odd now having finished. Riding has been my job for the last few weeks, I'm used to it. Theres lots to do at home and there is always a ride somewhere. I will post again in the next couple of days, just some points on what worked and what didn't practical stuff that may assist other cyclists planning on touring up this way.

A big thanks to all those who commented and supported me along the way you all helped me 'live the dream' and I thank you once more. I hope I can return the favour and support you to live your own dream whatever that may be.

Best Wishes

Nickman   

 

Pine Creek to Adelaide River:  After my night in the meat locker (aka donger). I was cherry ripe, I felt strong on the bike. I suppose I have ridden myself into condition. Its 112 clicks to Adelaide River and rather than push hard I resolved to ride within myself and enjoy the penultimate day of my ride.

I skirt Butterfly Gorge National Park, its good country. Hilly but fun in warm conditions with a good road surface, what little wind there is is over my left shoulder. I rolled through Emerald Springs and stopped for coffee at Hayes Creek Roadhouse. Lots of road works and controlled burning taking place. Wildlife is in abundance, while Cabbage Tree Palms dot the landscape. The termite hills are getting bigger so I stopped briefly for a happy snap.

I have seen lots of water birds: Herons, Egrets and Spoonbills but no Brolgas. I saw what could be two Jabiru high in the sky but I can’t be sure, white bodies with black underwings and heads and long legs trailing off- perhaps they were Magpie Geese. I am in big, open country at the edge of Litchfield National Park which many say is as good as Kakadu.

At Adelaide River I am stripping the panniers and the rear back from the bike. I’ll repack BOB and discard anything that was originally white and is now stained red from the desert dust. I am set for the run to Darwin and the end of my ride tomorrow.

A rowdy night at Knots Crossing Resort, Caravan park, Katherine very expensive-I paid $20 to sleep on the grass, next to a group of young women who were competing in the Katherine Challenge and run/kayak and cycling event. They were a nice bunch who partied long into the night. It was just like being at home with my daughters.

On the road at 7am for a last look around Katherine, an interesting place, the residents live in paradise, with palm trees, mango and frangipanis as street tree. However they were housed behind razor topped cyclone wire fencing, big gates and bigger dogs. I guess paradise comes at a cost. Real or imagined.

No wind at all earlier, hot and humid, with a fecund smell to everything. Tropical in a word. Smoke from the seasonal burn off hung heavy but didn't effect my asthma. Its gorge country so I expected the rises and rolling countryside, even some challenging hills which is what I got. When crossing the clear waters of the Edith and then the Ferguson Rivers I kept an eye out for Brolgas and the famed Jabiru, perhaps even crocodiles, but to no avail. Plenty of white cockatoos though who have taken to jeering at me.

I had a near death experience once again with a roadtrain, it was passing a slow caravan. I looked up to see it coming straight at me. I managed to scarper down the embankment without crashing but it was a close run thing.

Reaching the top of a rise I saw a figure coming towards me, it was Adam another cyclist from Darwin, riding to Uluru. We stopped and chatted for a while about our bikes and gear. We advised each other of the road ahead. I took a happy snap then watched Adam disappear into the never never.

For $5 more than I paid for a grassy campsite last night, I was offered a "Donger" at Pine Creek. A "Donger" is a name for a box 8ft by 10ft with a bed and air conditioning. Its no hotel room but luxury nonetheless.

225 kms from here 110 kms tomorrow to Adelaide River and then its Darwin on Tuesday unless my legs fall off.

Don you left a number off your phone number can you repost because I will try to catch you in Darwin

Last night under a starlit sky beneath a canopy of ghost gums, I sat around a raging camp fire, over a few drinks strangers became friends as each took turns in telling their story. How they came to be here, where they were from and most importantly where to next. Although this far north its pretty sure we are all headed to Darwin.

Three English 'Travelers' taking a gap year are in search of the Real Australia (aren't we all mate!), 2 retired blokes from Geelong first came up this way over 40 years ago but were forced back by floods, mechanical breakdown and bad roads, now its on their "bucket list" of things to do before they die. A couple from Western Australia in a 4WD made a point of getting as far as they could on the dirt until they were spat out at the Olgas (I saw the state of the road they came off, pretty scary!). They told of having to wait as mobs of wild horses crossed their path and of waking in the morning to be surrounded by camels. A single mum about 40 was taking her 12 year old daughter on 'girls own adventure'. I admired them all out here living their dream. "What about you on the bike where are you headed?" I told them Darwin then home to family. I was thankful for a different taste of Australia. There seemed to be agreement that out here you can live life large. Time and distance don't matter, its a tough place though where men are men and the cattle are nasty.

Not much out here dies of 'natural causes'. The roads are littered with animals of all types, I'm reminded of what a guy said to me at Renner Springs: "If it flies, walks, crawls, or slithers it makes its way here eventually" (he didn't add and ends up on the wall or in a jar on the bar as a curio). I do my best to make people understand that apart from our bicycle fetish, cyclists are just like everybody else, but end up sounding like a pervert trying to explain their nasty little habit, oh well time for bed.

On the road to Katherine i saw 3 types of Kangaroo: The small grey wallaby, a red Kangaroo and something else that looked like a black faced wallaby, we get that one down here in Victoria, all were alive thankfully! I also saw what looked like a wild pig, which didn't thrill me, just outside Mataranka. I encountered flocks of sulpher crested cockatoos, in contrast coming into Katherine it was all yellow tailed black cockatoos. While the road in between was winding with the usual cross winds, coming into Katherine the last 8kms was on a separate bicycle path-nifty.

I puledl into a caravan park by the Katherine River, had my 'Brevet" signed, the last Audax checkpoint until Darwin, unless there is a secret control at Pine creek!

On the subject of Caravans, on the road I often see convoys of caravans, could that be a caravan of caravans? Why am i surprised that the weather is warming up as I head north? Hot today but lots of fun, from where I'm camped its about 95kms tomorrow to Pine Creek and roughly 325kms to Darwin.   

After a relaxing night in Larrimah, it’s warming up. Great conditions again through this open wooded country, various wattles are in flower and I see numerous parrots. The wind was fluky, however the bike was performing well after a good clean and oil. Its only 78 kms to Mataranka, I have a brief rest stop about half way and roll into the Mataranka Thermal Pools Resort just after midday, The ground is rock hard and its becoming difficult to set up the tent. I cobbled together a swag-type situation incorporating the bike and BOB as part of the frame. It only needs to hold together for 3 or 4 more nights. The thermal pool is beautiful, but I just don’t like being there by myself. Its all couples- Blokes in budgie smugglers or lolly-bags and women in sarongs or oversized towels.

Despite going to the wrong caravan park, I managed to catch up with Werner and Jenny, cyclists I have met previously. I hear stories form the caravaners of a mob of about 30 cyclists just a day or so behind me. They had booked out the pub and caravan park at Larrimah on Saturday night. I expect they will catch my little breakaway, somewhere between Pine Creek and Adelaide River in  a couple of days time. Perhaps the pelaton  could drag me into Darwin.

Katherine tomorrow, Pine Creek on Sunday, Adelaide River Monday and hopefully Darwin on Tuesday. Its about 420 kms to go.

Thanks for all the comments and best wishes.

When I rode into Daly Waters yesterday afternoon, I received an ironic cheer from a few assembled caravaners:

"You made it" they said "the only problem is the caravan park is full?"

The only area vacant was a site set aside specifically for tents and being the only tent camper I had plenty of space. I caught up with people in Daly Waters  that I had first met at Coober Pedy 3 weeks back. I saw them again at Threeways and now here. They asked if I needed anything, I borrowed a hammer to straighten out my tent pegs. I also caught up with another couple I'd me three times and they all seemed genuinely interested in my progress. As travelers on the track somehow our journeys and stories have overlapped. As I left this morning people waved goodbye.

"Perhaps we'll see you in Mataranka" one said.

"We'll toot as we pass"  said another.

So off I went the desert mallee scrubland behind me. Into the open wood land. Tall flowering gums, poinsettias, a cacophony of bird noises and regular flocks of yellow tailed black cockatoos, small wallabies and moving up ahead I see what looks like wandering cattle, but as I get closer I realize its people. Three guys, station hands, who's car had broken down. They reckoned they’d been hitchhiking for 10 kms and had been unable to get a lift. Perhaps because the three of them looked like gunslingers straight out of a Western. I gave them breakfast bars and water for which they were most grateful and left them to it.I was happy to render assistance in the hope they may do the same for a stranded cyclist one day.

There’s a real community out here. The term “Grey Nomads” doesn’t do the caravaners justice. I have found these people, retired or semi retired, generous, openhearted, knowledgeable and with a spirit of adventure to be admired.

Meanwhile back on the road, the wind is against me for the first time in days and I labour to make Larrimah by 2pm. Its pretty basic. I make camp under a huge frangipani, clean the bike and plan tomorrow’s run to Mataranka. The tuckerbox is getting low and there’s no shop in Larrimah. So its pot luck tonight, fish and chips tomorrow

Had a great night in Daly Waters Hotel, the singer Frank was terrific and had a hat with what he said were eagles on his head but they were definitely chooks. I took a photo but it was blurred. I didn't stay late but saw some familiar faces of other travellers there. I rode the 95 kms to Larrimah today and there is no mobile and only limited internet so will post tomorrow hopefully from the legendary  Mataranka.

Up early and on the road at 7am, clear blue sky, light tail winds and the ubiquitous eagles soaring. Bike, BOB and I were like the holy trinity working as one just humming along.

The countryside is beautiful, just before Newcastle Waters I came across an unfortunate scene: At first I thought it was a motor car accident and hoped everyone would be OK. There was a car parked on one side of the road and debris on the other side. Evidently what had happened was that the day previous a couple towing a large caravan were caught in cross winds, over corrected and lost control. Car and caravan careered down the embankment. I heard about this accident when I was at Renner Springs. I don't know what happened to the couple or their car but the caravan was totally destroyed and the embankment was just littered with debris. The car that had stopped was occupied by a couple of rough heads from Katherine who were loading up their trailer with what they could salvage. I found the whole scene unseemly. They said it happens quite frequently but its not common knowledge because they don't want it to affect tourism. 

Another 20 kms up the track, I came to Redmond Crossing and Newcastle Creek there's a fair bit of water around and as I crossed the raised crossing I spotted two Brolgas. They spotted me as well and wandered off away from the creek. They then took off what a marvelous sight to watch these Australian Stork take to the air. I don't know how high they grow but they looked to be at least twice the size of the eagles. 

Further on I saw lots of wild cattle, birds and trees I didn't recognise. It was hot but the southeasterly breeze kept the temperature from being oppressively. I passed a monument to Sir Charles Todd which would have to be the most phallic memorial I have ever seen. You'd be hard pressed (pardon the pun) to see anything more phallic. I stopped and took a photo- see below. I think Sir Charles is overexposed, he already had a knighthood, and a river in Alice Springs named after him, in fact nearly all the monuments I've seen on my travels are to 19th centruy men.

I think we need some modern memorials. How about one to Knackers Magee who helped win the premiership for Bullamakanka West for 5 years running or Cheryl Heath who volunteered tirelessly at the tuck shop at the local primary school for 35 years. I figure if Cheryl or Knackers are not members of the local lodge, they don't stand a chance. As for the native people, in some places its like they never existed while in others they never left.

I pushed on through the afternoon heat haze. At Dunmarra Roadhouse I had done just over 100 kms but decided to push on to Daly Waters Hotel a further 50 kms. I felt strong and just pumped it out, managing to avoid a small snake on the road I stopped and took its photo.

At Daly Waters I had my Audax brevet signed, a lemon squash then set up camp. I showered and did my washing I am off not to sample the bill of fare at the famous Daly Waters Hotel which is renowned for its great food, hospitality and entertainment. 

Its Groundhog day today. After a funny (ha ha) afternoon/evening in Renner Springs I was out on the road at 7am. Clear blue skies and the wind at my back. The eagles were so low checking me out, I felt I could almost reach out and give them a tickle. Despite the conditions, it took me a while to get going, still only a lazy 92 kms today. Similar country to what I have been traveling through these last few days. Lots of CREST signs, to let you know you've been climbing and descending most of the day. 

I saw a snake by the verge but I wasn't going to go and chase a snake in the grass, took a snap of its dead cousin though. After about 40 kms I was feeling good and it was warming up. I stopped to apply some sunscreen a motorcyclist from Narooma in NSW pulled up to ask if I was ok and needed water or anything, which was kind of him. I got going again and with favourable conditions I found myself in Elliot just before 1 pm.

Its 136 kms to Daly Waters tomorrow, if the conditions allow, otherwise there's a roadhouse after about 100 kms. I'm around 730 kms out of Darwin. maybe 600 after  tomorrow. I'm starting to believe that I will make it, in fact, I am in a peculiar space right now. On the one hand I can see the end of the journey in sight, and I am looking forward to seeing my family who I miss terribly, while another part of me doesn't want the journey to end.

Threeways to Renner Springs: I woke at 5:15 and broke camp, by 6am I was sitting in a Roadhouse taking advantage of a bottomless cup of coffee and waiting for it to get light enough to hit the road. Slim Dusty was singing "When the rain tumbles down in July". WHile the roadtrain drivers woofed down large helpings of bacon and eggs, inb etween mouthfuls they eyes me suspiciously.

Its another sunny day, a nice tail wind and the small flowering wattles by the roadside add a light perfume to the early morning. I see numerous eagles, wild cattle and two dingos in quick succession.Its a long run to Renner Springs, 138 kms, on top of yesterday's 135 kms - 270 kms over 2 days is a tough Audax weekend on the road bike!

I break up the day by singing while I ride. Rolling Stones and the songs of my youth. Mum used to say I had a beautiful voice it just had a rough passage out. The fact is I could'nt hold a tune if it had handles! Still there are not too many critics out here.I push on through the rises, at times the country reminds me on the road into Wilson's Prom, over the next rise I expect to see the sea, but I am about 200,000,000 years too late.

I rattle into Renner Springs at about 3pm. I camp on grass, shower and relax. Looking at my map and distances, I have somewhere between a week and 10 days until I hit Darwin. Bike, BOB and I all holding up well and most of my gear has proved durable as well. My tent pegs which are all bent out of shape and have lost all their tensile strength from being wacked in too hard ground with rocks and tree branches. They resemble aldente spaghetti. My inflatable mattress, leaks air and deflates overnight. But then again so do I.

Elliot tomorrow 92 kms.

 

To increase the surface area of the kickstand, I place a crushed aluminiumn can on the groung. This increases the surface area and holds the bike steady, even in uneven or sandy soil. When i get home I might need to make somethingto permanently widen the foot.

 

In Renner Springs tonight. Another great day's riding- no mobile coverage limited internet, will post tomorrow.

What a great day. Clear skies and a gentle cross breeze a nice testing climb for the 10 kms to the Devil’s Marbles. With the eagles as my pathfinder. I just pumped it up and out today, it was great on the bike, you feel every hill and conversely you notice every downhill gradient. Changing countryside, scrubland and River Red Gums through the Elliot Swamp.

I rolled into Tennant Creek about 2 pm, fronted the bar at the Tennant Creek hotel where I ordered 2 pots of lemon squash, one for me and one to honour my mate Chris, who often spoke of his torment in Tennant Creek as a young Pom new to this country in the 1970’s, I’m sure he gave as good as he got though.  A  few bemused bikers couldn’t believe I travelled from Melbourne on a bicycle.

Its pretty slow in Tennant Creek on a Sunday afternoon so after resting at the pub and having my Audax brevet signed it was off up the track to Threeways. I could turn right for the Barkly tablelands, Mount Isa and Queensland, but I’ll do the 966 kms to Darwin- I’m three quarters of the way there!

There is some tough riding ahead and its hot out here, I’m stocking up on drinks and tucker. I’m camped next to a couple who I camped next to at Coober Pedy. They asked me if I had caught up with my wife and daughter and I told them the story. They said they’d seen me on the road a few times and they toot and wave, then again lots of people toot and wave.

Lifes a funny thing.

While I am on a big bike ride, each day is a ride within itself, a stage if you like- think Tour De France! Each day has its challenges and opportunities: flat stage stages, hills, wind, rain, sun and other unforeseen hazards.

Each day has its own rhythm and generally I break an average 100km day down into 4 stages. The first 25 kms today was in crisp, sunny conditions with a gentle climb to Mount Stuart, all of 300 metres. Downhill to a roadside rest stop. A drink of hot coffee from my thermos and as I leave the clouds are building, rain is expected. Stage 2: The wind is picking up as well. I am thinking about lunch, something small, fruitcake and a small two fruits. The riding conditions are good, mostly flat, a little lumpy around the ranges. This is cattle country- grids and flood ways, less woodland, there is grass and water in the creeks. I am sure it is not always like this. The wind springs up and stage 3 becomes a bit of a grind. I am feeling really good though and could keep riding all day which is just as well. Stage 4, I keep riding under the darkening skies and soon enough its 10 kms to Barrow Creek.

I roll in just after 2pm with rain threatening. Helen, who runs the pub, allows me to camp in the unfinished addition out the back. It is a building site amidst a ramshackle collection of huts and abandoned vehicles. But for $5 I am under cover and put my mat on the floor. It is a great pub and every available surface is covered with money, memorabilia and graffiti from all over the world: snakes in jars on the mantelpiece along with assorted curios, it is not contrived though, not a theme pub. I feel very comfortable here.

I wander about and check out the old telegraph station that was opened in 1872 and the small cemetery, where 2 men were killed by natives in 1874. There were plenty of natives around the pub. I sit in the "grog yard", listening to country music on the juke box, even singing along with my new friend Vincent, who looks like Charley Pride with a Stetson hat on. There is a caged area next to the "grog yard" and it has a sign on it saying "sin bin" I guess its better than being barred altogether. Its very relaxed and Helen the manageress comes out to join us and we sing and watch the sun go down. I go off to my cubicle but I am woken about 9pm by screams and fighting in the grog yard. There'll be tears before bedtime, but not mine. I go back to sleep to be woken again at 1am by the pub dogs barking, I think they are disturbed by either a dingo or a late night reveler. I wake for the 3rd time at 6:15am to light rain falling on the corrugated roof.

I steel myself for a wet run to Wycliffe Well.

 

 

Thanks Werner and Jenny for the photos.

A half day of riding, a really easy 60 kms. Left the friendly folk at Aileron for an easy early morning ride into a slight head wind which kept the flies down. Cloudless blue skies and early 20's temperature, another day watching eagles and tree spotting.

Lots of Bloodwoods with the bush coconuts attached to their limbs. Apparently they make good bush tucker, but. I would have to be hungry because the thought of eating wasp pupae, even when surrounded by delicious coconut flavoured fruit, just doesn't do it for me. Having said that I have heard you do need wasps to pollinate figs. Along with the Bloodwoods I saw Wattles, Ghost Gums and Coolibahs. The termite mounds are getting bigger.

Close to Ti Tree a couple in a car stop, Werner and Jenny Fischer, Werner is traveling around Australia on a bike and Jenny is the support person since her injury. Check out his site: www.crazyguyonabike.com/tandemtouring

I rolled into Ti Tree about 1 pm, I'm on a grassed camping are. Like most roadhouses it has a pub, petrol station and a store. They also specialise in local Aboriginal painting and handicrafts. This is part of the Utopia style of painting- very beautiful and very expensive.

I also stopped at the Central Australian Farm Shop which sells frozen kangaroo tails. So far I have resisted the urge to festoon bike and BOB with all manner of found object: Bones and feathers mostly. I do like the idea of a big red kangaroo tail on the back of BOB and some water buffalo horns on the front of the bike, but I guess the rig looks eccentric enough as it is. It might scare the wild cattle though, either that or they'd want to make with the rig!

Tomorrow its 110 kms to Barrow Creek Roadhouse.

Is that you Jan? Thanks to my work colleagues for your kind comments.

 

A slight climb out of Alice Springs leaving the Macdonnell Ranges behind. The Australasia rail line is on my right hand side while roads lead off to native communities such as Yamba and Napperby. Flat country now, the sun's out and 40 kms north of Alice Springs we cross the Tropic of Capricorn. A slight wind at my back makes the going easy. Temperature in high teens to low twenties, ideal cycling conditions. I passed the turn offs for the Plenty Highway and the road to Harts Range and Gemtree Roadhouse (where people go to fossick for gems).

Not long after the landscape changes. Termite mounds appear small at first then larger and more frequent-Some look like kangaroos. Up through Native Gap I take my time to name trees: Bloodwoods, Wattles, Ghost Gums. There's been a lot of rain recently, too much even for this parched landscape to soak up. So on the flat sheets of still fresh water cover the ground, appearing like the fabled "Inland sea".

Birds are in profusion: budgies, crows, spinifex pigeons and of course eagles, who seem as common around the range country as seagulls are at home. I take a snap of an eagle feasting on a dead kangaroo by the roadside.

I stop at Ryan's Well and the Glen Maggie ruins. The idea of opening up the country by sinking wells wasn't always effective.

At Aileron Roadhouse they have a Giant Native Man sculpture. I take a couple of happy snaps. Not much here other than the roadhouse and caravan park.

After a cold and dramatic week in Alice Springs and Uluru, I have repacked, serviced the bike, said goodbye to the family and tomorrow morning I'm off. Will keep you posted.

Just out of town we saw these red kangaroos. They're a bit different to the grey ones I photographed at Loxton on the Murray a few weeks back.

Grace was released from hospital this morning, washed out, tired, but OK. The weather is still pretty bad with Alice recording the lowest temp in May ever on Saturday, 9.6 Celsius. We decided the best thing to do would be to keep out of the weather and go for a drive in the warmth and comfort of the Britz Van. We traveled West through the beautiful West Macdonnell Ranges. 

We went to Glen Helen and it was sunny there. The gorge was beautiful and had a funky guest house where we had a cup of coffee. We saw a big red kangaroo being chased by a dingo on the way there. We decided to drive to Herrmannsberg, an old Lutheran mission and birthplace of Albert Namitjira, the whole landscape looked like his paintings. We also came across a small herd of wild brumbys on the side of the road.

Now that Grace is out of hospital and well, I have decided to keep going on towards Darwin. It will be hard but I will leave Therese, Grace and the comfort of the Britz Van in Alice Springs on Wednesday. My first stop is Ailerion, about 130 kms up the road. Home of a giant Aboriginal warrior (I don't think he's Hungarian but may have been built by one!)

A big thanks to all the staff at Alice Springs Hospital for loooking after Grace they were fantastic.